. At early R3M we have two screws on the trigger. Like on that picture.
As you can see there are two screws there. They worked as follows — when you push the trigger the screw # 1 start to push the plate of the balance-beam. In the beginning of the movement of the trigger the screw # 2 is not touching the beam, but before the sear ready to release the hammer the screw # 2 touch the beam and the shooter feels it as "step", indicating that now there will be shot if he pushes a little more. So, by adjusting by those two screws it was possible to set the moment when the screw # 2 touch the beam, thus making the trigger harder or softer, adjusting the step, making it from hard to no step.
Then I decided that we don't need the screw # 2, as it just makes the adjustment too complicated for those who doesn't understand the logic of the work and I removed it and made the pad on the trigger, instead of it. Look at the next picture.
So, the logic of the work is the same — by adjusting the screw # 1 the shooter can adjust the moment when the pad touching the surface of the balance-beam. So the adjustment at R3M remaind the same as it was before, but easier.
Now I see that the second screw at the trigger system of R5M/Lelya 2.0 makes people confused. Here is the picture:
As you can see we have two screws again But they are not as it was before. The adjustment of the trigger is the same as it was at late R3M, the shooter should use the scew # 1 to adjust the "step" making it harder or softer or remove it completely. But the screw # 2 has nothin with the trigger. That is the stopper. You know when you shoot and the trigger keeps moving the accuracy is work in comparison with the case when the trigger stopped right after the hammer released off the sear. So the screw # 2 is to be set to stop the tirgger. It is very easy to do — ajust the trigger to your comfort way, then screw up the # 2 and check out if the hammer still is able to be realeased of the sear when you push the trigger, When you get the position when the hammer is still hold by the sear though you pushed the trigger up to the end — unscrew it a little bit back. So, when you adjust it this way you will have the trigger you want and it will stop immidiately the hammer is rellease, that will help you with the accuracy.
Hope it was helpfull for you.
This is the number 1 question I seem to get when a person purchases a Leshiy. Since the gun came out, I have asked Ed to offer a dedicated scope for the gun. The Leshiy sits in its own class without the support that other guns get regarding scope options. It is built kind of like a mini AR-15 and as such many of the scopes that would fit an AR fit a Leshiy but they all lack one significant feature ... parallax adjustment. I have had some experience with Russian scope companies, and I have found many of them to be hidden gems concerning price for the quality. My first experience was with The Dragunov sniper rifle equipped with the PSO-1 (Прицел Снайперский Оптический) I had to have one of these rifles because Rambo had one in III. Anyway, the scope was terrific. This experience prompted me to ask Ed for an all Russian set up, gun and scope. The journey for Ed started more than a year ago. He traveled to Moscow to discuss with the Dedal company about a dedicated Leshiy scope. After a few prototypes, the Stalker was born; a scope built for a purpose. The scopes will be offered soon and will fit well on both the Leshiy and new Lelya 2.0
This scope had a very forgiving eye box and a massive field of view. Very easy to shoot with both eyes open. The turrets and reticle are both in milliradians with a 12 mil reticle value. The glass is made in Russia by the Dedal factory. The quality is on par with many top tier scope makers. The Dedal comes with an integrated mount that has a positive lock up and repeatable zero. The turrets a capped and have a low profile. The scope tracks correctly, and the turrets have a very positive click when set and turned. The Illumination is excellent with no bleed noticed even at the highest setting. The illumination activated by a soft rubber button located at the rear of the battery storage. The parallax is on the top of the scope; an unusual position but after a few minutes I was used to the operation of adjusting the parallax with the top knob. The parallax adjustment has a faint click to it, and it operates like butter. The scope finish is mat and had a lovely look. Overall this scope has a full-blown military feel and durability.